Whilst most foreign objects enter the tire via the tread some can find their way in through the sidewall casing – that’s the sides when the tires are mounted on the wheel. There’s a third attribute in the fight against punctures – the tire casing. Like the puncture protection layer we detailed above, the aim here is to provide an extra barrier against sharp objects. Others are extra tough.Īnother trick used by tyre manufacturers is to use either a special blend of rubber tread or a tread with extra thickness. Some are extra thick to prevent objects which penetrate the tire from reaching the inner tube. The most popular method is to add an extra layer between the tread (the rubber outside of the tire) and the casing (the inside of the tyre that forms its shape). However, several features are added to tires to eliminate the most common types of punctures. We hate to say it, but no bike tire is 100% puncture-proof. Bikes with incorrectly set up rim brakes can also rub the tyre causing it to rupture and lose air. In some instances, the tyre can be incorrectly seated on the wheel, causing the inner tube to be exposed. Sometimes a tyre can be so worn that the inner tube is quickly exposed to the surface upon riding. There are other, less common, reasons for a tyre to get punctured. By choosing to ride tubeless tires you virtually eliminate this type of puncture. Most pinch flats can be identified by a ‘snake bite’ pattern in the inner tube – that is two thin holes adjacent to one another. It occurs when the inner tube is squeezed against the wheel. This only occurs in tyres with an inner tube. The second cause of a puncture is what’s commonly known as a pinch flat.
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